Shortly after World War II, several American veterans seeking peace and tranquility after their long ordeal discovered the village of Chapala on the north rim of the lake and somewhat later the village of Ajijic several miles to the west.   The rest as they say is history and the north rim of the lake is now home to an estimated 25,000 (more, some folks say) expatriates mostly from the U.S. and Canada with a growing number of folks from Europe and elsewhere.   The primary villages across the north rim run from Chapala in the east to Jocotopec on the western end of the lake with Ajijic in the middle being the acknowledged center of ex-pat activity.

While the cobblestone streets and the architecture recall an earlier time, be assured the ex-pats have over the years demanded and received the creature comforts they were accustomed to in their homelands.   Modern homes in gated or open subdivisions with all the amenities you are used to abound along with golf courses with spectacular mountain and lake views on every hole, tennis courts, fine restaurants of almost every style and nationality, supermarkets, convenience stores for the quick pick-ups, clubs, churches, organizations and most every form of recreation are available.   If you like horsies, you will be pleased to know they are still a primary means of transportation here as well as a major recreational activity.   Bicycling is huge here with the weekends bringing hundreds and hundreds of serious bikers out to the highways, byways and trails.   If the house you buy (or rent) doesn't have a pool…don't worry your neighbor's does!   And, if you can't find what you're looking for at Lakeside, Guadalajara is only a short drive away.   Guadalajara is about the size of Chicago and offers all the trappings of large cosmopolitan cities including a vibrant population of very hip people,   large modern shopping malls, live theatre, the ballet, symphony, museums, centuries old cathedrals, a large and modern International Airport and much more.   And, if you need an American or Canadian fix, you'll find such brands as McDonald's, Burger King, KFC, Dominos, Starbuck's, Subway, Walmart, Sam's Club, Costco, Home Depot, Office Depot, Outback, Chili's, Applebee's, Radio Shack, Century 21 and more, most with multiple locations across the city.

Realities and Urban Myths

1. The country is crawling with bandidos ready to rape and pillage at your expense!   Wrong!   Actually, while there have certainly been drug issues around some of the border towns and near some of the supply areas, the current federal government is taking a “no tolerance” position on illicit drugs and has actually mobilized the military in this effort.   As for the Lake Chapala area, it probably has a lower crime rate than wherever you live right now.   Also most of the “crime” is limited to petty larceny and/or equally egregious offenses.   Rule of thumb…adopt a no temptation policy…no paranoia, just common sense!  
2. You can't really own land in Mexico.   Wrong!   A foreigner may not own land within 80 kilometers of either coastline.   Anywhere else, you may own land in the same way as in the U.S. or Canada.
3. You can't drink the water .   Not a bad idea.   The unfiltered water coming out of the taps in my fraccionamiento (subdivision) tests about the same as the water where we lived in the U.S., but, we didn't drink that water either.   Most restaurants and public places have purified water and whole house purification systems are readily available.   Having said all that, we opt for bottled water.   Special note: Go easy on spicy Mexican food and especially street food as it will bring you down a lot faster than the water.
4. I can't bring my car to Mexico .   Wrong.   You may bring one car per person on your FM3 or FM2 visa.   You must register cars at the border and relinquish your registration when re-entering the U.S. and re-register upon returning to Mexico.   Other than that, no problema!...and you will find the insurance on foreign plated vehicles to be remarkably inexpensive…like $300 to $400 per year for full coverage.   Just remember one thing…it is against the law in Mexico for a foreign plated car to be driven by anyone but the owner or their spouse.   We have heard of many ingenious ways to get around this, but, if a non-owner driver is ticketed or involved in an accident, the police can and sometimes do legally confiscate the vehicle.   Ain't worth it partner!
5. Wal-Mart is the largest employer in Mexico .   True…They are ubiquitous!
6. The scorpions, tarantulas and coral snakes gonna get you !   Probably not!   Haven't seen a tarantula yet and coral snakes are an endangered species (unless you're into backwoods mud baths).   Scorpions however are part of life here.   Good insecticides and spraying regimens will keep them in check and if you see one, just step on it (with a shoe, of course…they are usually slow and not terribly smart).   Fortunately, while the sting is usually painful, it is rarely fatal (generally, only in allergic situations) but does require attention.   A trip to the doctor or Cruz Rojo (Red Cross) is a good idea.
7. Mexicans are hostile towards “Gringos.”   Almost never!   Most Mexicans you encounter will be friendly and helpful and the harder you try to speak Spanish, the better they will like you…even if you butcher it.   A nice smile also goes a long way.
8. Spanish is optional in the Lake Chapala area.   True, most people you deal with speak English, but the more Spanish you can speak, the richer your life will be.   And when you venture out of our little Lakeside cocoon you will need some Spanish.   We recommend always carrying an electronic English/Spanish translator which is inexpensive and available at any Office Depot or similar store.
9. You can't work in Mexico.   Somewhat true.   Unless you are being sent here by a foreign company, it is difficult to get a visa that allows you to work.   The basic premise is that if a Mexican national is available and qualified for the job, he or she gets it.   However, once you are here for awhile, many times it is possible to get permission from the government to work if the circumstances are right.
10. The cops in the back of the pickup patrol vehicles with the machine guns don't have bullets!   We've heard that, but have no interest in testing the validity of the theory!   Actually, we kind of like the deterrent value of the “high-profile” presence of the local policia!

Creature Comforts

If you're worried about your NFL games or your Frappachino, rest easy neighbor.   Everything is going to be fine.   If you arrive via Guadalajara International Airport, glance to your left after you've cleared customs and entered the main terminal area.   Right behind the Burger King you will see the requisite Starbucks.   Too rich for your blood?   Glance to the right and up slightly and Bingo!...you'll see a Dunkin Donuts .   And don't worry about your remote because the Cable company or the Satellite company will probably be giving you a new one anyway to access the same channels you watch in the U.S. or Canada.   High-speed Internet is available in most areas from Telmex (the largest phone company in Mexico) or from wireless, cable or Satellite providers with more options in the offing.   State-of-the-arts electronics, appliances, computers, accessories and gadgets are available at any number of retail outlets in the Lakeside area or for a virtually unlimited selection take the short drive to Guadalajara.   If you need special wiring, plumbing or water treatment you will find a plethora of providers around Lakeside with prices you haven't thought about in 25 years…or more!   Looking for Campbell's Soup or French's mustard or Bisquick or Thomas' English Muffins?   Try Super Lake , a supermarket in San Antonio just outside Ajijic that specializes in American and Canadian comfort food...although, be prepared to pay a premium for these “imported” foodstuffs.   Didn't find what you were looking for?   Just ask Pancho the manager and he'll get it for you.   Finally, for the ultimate shopping experience, you won't believe what you can find at the tianguis which are the outdoor street markets held one day a week in most major towns and villages.   And, we hear tell that Costco & Wal-Mart are seriously checking the viability of a Lakeside presence.

A Brief Digression…

There is an organization based in Ajijic called the Lake Chapala Society ( www.lakechapalasociety.org .) Don't even think about it…just join!   It not only has beautiful grounds, libraries, videos, talking books, travel agency, mail service etc., but they are the oracle of wisdom about the Lake Chapala area and Gringo living in Mexico!

While we were mulling over the decision to move here, a couple who had done the same thing a couple of years before us said, “If you try to make this decision with your head, it will probably never make sense.   You've got to make it with your heart!”   Sound advice!   Make sure that in your heart you want to make the move.   If you can't do that, don't move!   Once the decision is made to move, there are some things to consider.   Moving all of your furniture, appliances etc. can be expensive, probably $5000.00 USD to $10,000.00 USD (or more) depending on how much you bring and how you do it.   There are several competent moving specialists at Lakeside that can help you.   You will also find that almost all rentals are furnished and most existing homes are sold partially or fully furnished.   If you're purchasing new construction, of course, you'll usually have to furnish it (fyi…furniture, appliances and electronics prices in Mexico are about the same as the U.S. or Canada, and some things are more).   If you're buying a home, give yourself plenty of time to close and be prepared to stay elsewhere for awhile.   The standard 30 day turnaround can easily stretch to 60 days or more if you run into legal or title issues or Notarios closed for vacations or holidays.   Also, if your furniture mover gets a “red light” at the border, you could be in for more delays.   Obviously, for your own protection and comfort level, you may want to consider retaining Mexican counsel, hiring a home inspector and/or purchasing title insurance.   If you are considering a mortgage, they are now available, but add some more time and be aware that there will be an American or Canadian credit check as part of the qualification process.   And, you probably won't be too thrilled with the terms!

Visas

Don't rush into getting a Mexican visa. You don't need a FM3 or FM2 to live in Mexico as a tourist. The FMT that is passed out on the airplane or completed at the border is fine for 6 months and you can always make a run for the border, cross the bridge and re-enter on a new one for another 6 months.   Spend some time in Mexico and then decide whether you want to go through the bureaucratic maze necessary to obtain a more permanent visa. The requirements below are subject to change and they probably will. Do not take them as gospel. Also remember a U.S. or Canadian passport is now required for travel between the three countries.

Your pet will also need papers.   90% of the time, you will not be asked for your pet's (dog or cat) Mexican immigration papers. It's only a pet certificate of health issued by a vet, but my dogs think they have “immigration papers.” Other pets are difficult to bring to Mexico.

FM-3 (there are many types, but you only need to worry about the retiree version).

For persons wishing to reside or retire in Mexico.
1. VALID PASSPORT AND ONE PHOTOCOPY.
Passport must have at least 6 months of validity remaining. If person is a legal resident of U.S., a copy of the front and back of the alien registration card is also required.

2. LETTER FROM THE BANK THAT PROVES A MINIMUM MONTHLY DEPOSIT OF ONE THOUSAND ($1,000) DOLLARS PER DEPENDENT
OR COPIES OF YOUR BANK STATEMENTS FOR THE LAST 6 MONTHS THAT PROVES YOUR MONTHLY DEPOSIT COVERS THE AMOUNT STATED ABOVE.

3. TWO (2) PASSPORT FRONT VIEW PHOTOS
NO AUTOMATIC MACHINE PHOTOS WILL BE ACCEPTED.

4. COMPLETED APPLICATION FORM

5. FEES :
One Hundred Thirty Two ($132.00) dollars (U.S.) paid in cash only - no money orders, company, personal or cashier's check will be accepted.
NO RENEWALS ARE DONE AT THE MEXICAN CONSULATE.
You must get in touch with the Mexican Immigration dept. 30 days prior to expiration date.

FM2 (If you're just dying to get on the road to quasi-citizenship)

The FM2 visa is the next step towards Immigrado status.   Holding an FM2 visa for 5 years allows applying for Immigrado status, which essentially gives you all the rights of a Mexican citizen except the right to vote.   There are trade-offs like some minor entry/exit restrictions, higher fees and the eventual loss of your right to keep a foreign plated vehicle with the great tourist insurance package.   So, before jumping into these higher forms of visas, make sure you're willing to accept the consequences.   Also, we hear tell that if you're a real diehard, it is possible for a Gringo to achieve full citizenship.

While it's a lot easier and not terribly expensive, you do not need a lawyer or a paralegal to get your FM-3. In many areas of the country, particularly Guadalajara, the Gobernacion officials speak English. See a representative at the Lake Chapala Society or visit one of the Mexican consulate websites at http://www.mexonline.com/consulate.htm for more information.

Healthcare

Top quality state-of-the-art healthcare is available to Gringos in Mexico at a fraction of the costs in the U.S. or Canada.   For most minor issues, we recommend simply selecting the local appropriate medical or dental provider and simply paying the relatively low fees for services.   For major or catastrophic issues, you may elect to purchase private insurance or sign up for the Mexican social security plan called IMSS which costs about $300.00 USD per person per year.   Again, the Lake Chapala Society can be helpful in this area.

Entertainment

As mentioned earlier there is no shortage of bars and restaurants at Lakeside and eating out is definitely the #1 entertainment choice…at least socially!   A close second are the unbelievable number of clubs, organizations (both civic and theme oriented), societies and groups.   Whatever your particular interest, pastime, sport, religion, we've got a group for you!   And, the Lakeside area appears to be on the “Fest A Week” program as there seems to be a festival in one of the towns or villages virtually every week.   Have we mentioned that you don't need much of an excuse to party down here?   Again, the best source of info for all of this is the Lake Chapala Society.  

You will also find that the Lakeside area is particularly well suited for in-country tours and local travel.   You are only a few hours drive to Pacific beach resorts such as Puerto Vallarta or Manzanillo, a 4 or 5   hours to the artsy/fartsy mountain tourist areas like San Miguel de Allende or Guanajuato or Queretaro and 6 to 7 hours to Mexico City.   There are several local travel agents who can arrange tours or book passage.   And, of course, a short drive to Guadalajara International Airport and the world is yours!

Summary

Don't worry, be happy!   You will make more friends and do more things faster than you ever have before.   But, remember what your mothers told you… Patience is a virtue!... or in some cases… Don't get your shorts in a wad!   So, chill out and come on down!!   As Annie sings… Manana, manana, I love you manana, you're only a day away!!!